Over the years
I have covered many thousands of miles on scheduled shipping services. However,
I had until August 09, 2008 not been on a long cruise. Any cruising had been
confined to day coastal jaunts on WAVERLEY and BALMORAL.
In 2005 I set
my sights a little further a field and undertook the first longer distance
voyage on Brittany Ferries PONT-AVEN between Plymouth and Santander a round trip
of approximately 950 nautical miles. Quite a few trips on this superb vessel
have followed since!
The next
logical progression would be to undertake a trip on a cruise ship. This is
something I had been threatening to do for some years but some how I never
managed to get round to it.
However, in
early July 2007 I became aware of a round Britain voyage scheduled for August
2008 on the BLACK PRINCE. Several years previously I had visited the ship during
a turn over call at Langton Dock, Liverpool with a group from the Merseyside
Branch of The World Ship Society and she appeared to be a very interesting
vessel.
BLACK PRINCE is
an old, but none the less interesting ship. Weighing in at 11,209grt she was
built by Lubecker Flender Werke, Lubeck, Germany as yard number 561 for Fred.
Olsen Lines as one of a pair of sister ships – the other sister being BLACK
WATCH.
BLACK WATCH was
jointly ordered by Fred. Olsen Lines and Bergen Line to serve on the Bergen Line
North Sea routes in summer and offer cruises for Fred. Olsen Lines from London
to the Canary Islands during the winter along with BLACK PRINCE. When operating
on the North Sea for Bergen Line BLACK WATCH became JUPITER and BLACK PRINCE
VENUS.
In winter BLACK
WATCH assumed her Fred. Olsen identity and offered cruises from London to the
Canary Islands along with BLACK PRINCE.
Both BLACK
PRINCE and BLACK WATCH offered significant ro/ro cargo and vehicle space and had
the facility to side load. In the recently published Carmania Press book “Fred.
Olsen Line Passenger Ships” a photograph of a then new BLACK PRINCE reveals the
extensive side loading capability.
On the Canary
Island cruises the ships returned with cargos of fruit destined for the UK. Back
in the late 1960s BLACK PRINCE and BLACK WATCH were state of the art ro-pax
vessels way ahead of any similar ships operating in UK waters. Very much the
PONT-AVEN of their day!
The Bergen Line
– Fred.Olsen Line agreement ended in 1986. BLACK WATCH / JUPITER reverted to
Bergen Line ownership and later passed into Greek ownership and a lengthy period
of lay-up.
A different
future beckoned for BLACK PRINCE. She was dispatched to Wartsila, Turku, Finland
for conversion to a cruise ship. This primarily involved the installation of 125
cabins on what had been the vehicle deck and the installation by McGregor-Navire
of a “Marina-Park” facility in the aft area of the former vehicle deck.
In recent
years, many of BLACK PRINCE’s cruises have operated out of Liverpool and she
obviously attracts a large number of passengers from Merseyside and the
North-West who are saved the long journey south to the main cruise departure
ports. She also operates some cruises each year from Greenock, Scotland.
However, the
future of BLACK PRINCE is not assured beyond 2010. She is a rather old vessel
and unless significant upgrade work undertake she will not survive the SOLAS
2010 cull. However, there are
rumours
doing the rounds that given her flexibility and the lack of similar sized small
cruise ships the company might decide to upgrade her to meet the new
requirements - one hopes these rumours prove to be accurate.
Therefore,
BLACK PRINCE faces a somewhat uncertain future and with that in mind it was time
to travel on a ship which I had photographed many times in the past. Cruise
BP819 was booked in July 2007 via
Captain Peter Corrin, late of the Isle of Man
Steam Packet Company, who is now a cruise booking agent.
Now whilst I
often book holidays a good while in advance, I have never booked anything as far
ahead as 13 months – but an early booking discount was a great incentive!
Time passed
surprisingly quickly between July 2007 and August 2008 due to a hectic year at
home which included a house move.
Eventually
August 09, 2007 dawned and in pouring rain I drove down to Liverpool docks in
typical British summer weather!
The directions
received with the ticket suggested that one should not arrive before 14:00, so I
considered myself early at 13:30 and discovered that a lot had already arrived
and parked up in the car parking facility which is operated by YA Auto Logistics
and bookable in advance.
I parked up,
emptied my bags out of the car, these were quickly taken up and put into the
luggage hold of a shuttle bus and within a few minutes the bus was on its way
round to Langton Cruise Terminal. As I disembarked from the bus cases and
luggage were already being off loaded from the coach and taken through to the
ship.
Quite a lot has
been said in the local press and discussed in online shipping forums about the
inadequacies of Langton Cruise Terminal, but the fact is, it works well and the
staff are very efficient.
Passenger
check-in was well organized there were different queues depending on which deck
one’s cabin was located on board.
On presentation
of tickets and travel documents ship account swipe cards were issued, these are
dual function operating as a security pass and an onboard charge card.
Additionally each group of passengers were issued with a numbered boarding card.
Boarding
commenced after only a fairly short wait with passengers being called forward in
groups. Passengers filed through security for the usual sampled search under the
gaze of a policeman with his sniffer dog.
Then it was
through to the transit shed. Much of the open space within being hidden by
screens. On the way the ship’s photographer took everyone’s photographs.
Prior to
ascending the steps to the shell door on deck 4 all passengers had their hands
disinfected with antibacterial foam to ensure the novo virus or other unpleasant
bug didn’t get on board. The hand sprays being a feature of all dining and
embarkation times during the cruise.
Once on board,
swipe cards were shown to the security officer and everyone was photographed by
web-cam – their image going into a database which showed the photo each time the
card was swiped.
Finding my
cabin 342 on Marina Deck (deck 3), just below. Marina Deck is the old vehicle
deck I was advised when booking by some “old hands” who regularly sail with
Fred. Olsen that the cabins in this area of the ship were better having dated
from the 1986 refit.
Cabin 342 was
quite spacious and deep with four wardrobes, a bed, a convertible Pullman berth,
dressing table and some storage lockers above the Pullman berth. Being used to
the big cabin windows of the PONT-AVEN and the still quite large windows of
cabins fitted to various Irish Sea ships the traditional small port hole window
did initially come as something of a surprise but one which one became
accustomed to quite quickly. Looking out of the port hole one is aware of being
quite low down and close to the water this is something which one doesn’t
experience on modern ro/pax vessels with their high accommodation.
The view out of
the window into Langton Dock was obscured by WHITTASK the Whittaker Oiler. After
spending a while unpacking my bags, which had been delivered to the cabin, and
stowing clothes I went off to find some friends who were also travelling and we
rendezvoused in the attractive ‘Aquitaine’ lounge forward on deck 5. This is a
quiet wood paneled piano bar which is divided up into an inner and outer area by
a slatted screen.
At 16:00
passengers were assembled in their muster stations for lifeboat drill. Though I
have never had cause to wear a lifejacket on my various short sea sailings, the
countless demonstrations observed on Isle of Man Steam Packet fast craft meant
that the process was quite straight forward. However, some passengers nearby did
managed to do some strange things with them – however, these were quickly put
right by attentive crew members.
Once again the
often present ship’s photographer was around snapping away. Photographs are
posted in the gallery near the ‘Royal Garter Restaurant’ in this day and age of
the ubiquitous digital camera one wonders if there is much sale for photos taken
by a third party, given that they are not particularly cheap at around £8.50
each! As well as photo sales a DVD of the cruise is available – but from the
clips which were being shown it was probably not the sort of DVD which would
appeal to ship enthusiasts.
With lifeboat
drill and a safety brief out of the way a good time before departure there was
plenty of time to head up onto the outside decks to observe departure. The rain
by now had gone off!
There is much
outside deck space on the BLACK PRINCE and being a small ship it is very easy
for anyone trying to photograph passing ships, landscape and seascape to move
from side to side and also end to end if necessary! Virtually all outside deck
space is available to passengers though at night the top deck around the funnel
is closed until around 05:30 to stop footsteps disturbing the officers and
passengers occupying the suites behind the bridge.
BLACK PRINCE
shares a rare feature in these security conscious times with Waverley Steam
Navigation Company’s BALMORAL. That is the bridge wings comprise part of the
open passenger deck – therefore only a waist high barrier separates passenger
from crew. One presumes it won’t before this feature succumbs to pressures of
security!
Promptly at
17:00 Captain Olav Sovdsnes eased BLACK PRINCE off the berth at West Langton and
we moved slowly into Langton Lock where we made fast at 17:16. With a high tide
on the River Mersey the lock did not detain us long and by 17:26 we slipped out
into the river swinging to starboard with a little assistance from tug ASHGARTH.
There was a
leisurely run down Crosby and Queen’s Channel behind the tanker NARIVA. After
dropping her pilot at Q1 PV DUNLIN came across to BLACK PRINCE and removed the
pilot at 18:34.
There are two
sittings for dinner one at 18:30 the other at 20:30. I had originally opted for
18:30 but switched it to 20:30 which turned out to be wise as the early sitting
can be rather close to departure time – usually when one wants to be on deck.
Three
restaurants can be found on board. The small – ‘Fleur de Lys’ with distinctly
green décor, the larger restaurant ‘Royal Garter’ and the conservatory style
‘Balblom’ on deck 7 aft. However, the ‘Balblom’ named after a former Fred. Olsen
Lines ship is only used for lunch and breakfast. It is a conservatory style
structure which was added in the late 1990s.
Opposite the
‘Royal Garter Restaurant’ is the ship’s shop. It isn’t very big perhaps a touch
bigger and a different shape to that on the BEN-MY-CHREE. There is a fair range
of goods but as a friend commented 90% of products are aimed at the female
market. There were a few souvenirs of interest to ship enthusiasts – though the
mugs were not very good. The line drawing looked like BLACK PRINCE had been
crossed with the present BLACK WATCH to produce a strange looking vessel
something like a shipping “Super Lamb Banana”. Something better is required!
Also on sale was the new Carmania Press book Fred.Olsen Line Passenger Ships.
But that was the only shipping book available.
To avoid delays
if one wishes to have wine with a meal, one pre-orders from cards which are left
on a table outside the Royal Garter Restaurant. The systems works well, but if
like me you are a creature of habit and imbibe the same wine each night – the
wine waiter will soon remember – after the first few days! Joseph, the waiter on
my table was very thorough.
Dinner on the
first night was in casual dress code. Service was excellent. I won’t into detail
but it would be what one would expect at a decent hotel and almost as good as
that served in the main restaurant on Brittany Ferries – PONT-AVEN.
At the end of
the meal – Reuben the Captain waiter for the table thoroughly explained the
dining arrangements for the rest of the cruise and dress codes.
Breakfast and
Lunch are offered open sitting in all three restaurants – though the choice in
the ‘Balblom’ is a little restricted when compared to the other two. On port
calls – apart from when I was at Kirkwall and busy sailing on one of the Orkney
Ferries – I returned to the ship for lunch. As it is inclusive it wouldn’t make
sense to stay ashore and actually buy a lunch! One really has to remember that
unless one wants to drink heavily, go shopping or take advantage of some of the
charged activities or excursions there is nothing more to pay!
Dinner was
unhurried and after leaving the ‘Royal Garter’ it was back to the ‘Aquitaine’
bar at the forward end. A quite spectacular electric storm was in progress. At
22:30 a light house could be discerned – Chicken Rock off the Calf of Mann.
It was quite
clear we were not sailing particularly fast as four hours had elapsed since
leaving the Liverpool Bar. As the captain later revealed in a talk – for much of
the cruise the ship was operating on one engine for reasons of economy and given
that some of the sectors of the cruise were quite loosely timed one engine
provided enough speed – around 13 knots.
At around 23:30
each evening stewards pass through the ‘Aquitaine’ and ‘Lido’ lounges bringing
late snacks. There are two other snack times during the day – 10:45 to 11:15 for
morning coffee etc and in the afternoon 15:45 to 16:15 when again stewards pass
through the lounges and around the open Lido deck. The latter time I began to
refer to as “bun time” after the first few days.
Around midnight
it was time to turn in for the night. Whilst away at dinner cabins are made up
for the night – it all being done unobtrusively as is the conversion back to day
time configuration – done during breakfast. One occasionally saw the cabin
stewardess – but everything was done quietly and with minimum fuss.
Extracts from
the Cruise Log presented to passengers at the end of the cruise are shown in
boxes at the end of each day. It should be noted that the weather conditions /
sea conditions did not prevail for the whole day but are shown as recorded.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Saturday:
Wind
Force 4 to 5, moderate to fresh breeze, overcast skies. Moderate to
rough seas. Barometer 1000mbs |
Sunday August
11
After a good
night’s sleep it was up to breakfast in the ‘Balblom’ restaurant, then out on
deck for much of the day as we took a leisurely sail through the Hebrides.
Skerryvor
lighthouse 11 miles SW of Tiree was observed around 09:45. Unlike most rock
lighthouses it has not been disfigured by the addition of a helicopter landing
platform. This being provided on the nearby rocks
At 10:45 a
timber ship – ANITA passed southbound.
At 12:00 the
Captain gave his report – we were 16.5 nmiles SE of Barra.
Shortly
afterwards there was an adjournment for lunch in ‘The Royal Garter Restaurant’
which was quite busy. After this future lunch breaks were taken at the ‘Balblom’
which didn’t appear to get quite so busy.
At around 15:15
we were around three miles west of Neist Point Lighthouse on the west coast of
the Isle of Skye.
Rhuba Re
lighthouse was passed at 18:45.
Sunday evening
was the first formal dress night of the cruise and the Captain’s Welcome
Cocktail Party in the ‘Neptune Lounge’. However, due to some confusion I went to
the ‘Aquitaine’ and missed it! Dressing up sounds like it can be a bit of a
chore and though I tend to dress less casually than most seldom being without a
tie – I did view the idea of “formal black tie” with some trepidation. However,
once done and realizing that almost everyone else has done it there is nothing
to it. Once you have bought the gear one is equipped for future cruises!
After dinner it
was back to the ‘Aquitaine’ lounge for drinks. The captain made an announcement
around 22:36 that we had rounded Cape Wrath on the North West tip of Scotland.
Bed followed
after late snacks – but it was going to be an early start! Arrival times are
indicated in “The Daily Times” Newsletter which stewardesses leave in the cabins
when they make them up for the night. Arrival at Kirkwall was indicated as being
07:00 – but the captain had advised that the pilot would be picked up around
05:45.
To get full
value from a trip like this it is important to be on deck during arrivals which
usually means an early start! So with late nights and early starts there isn’t
that much time to sleep unless one wakes to a sea day or an overnight in port.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Sunday:
Wind
Force 5, strong breeze, cloudy skies. Moderate seas. Barometer 991mbs |
Monday August
11
The Orkney
Pilot was on board at 05:51 being delivered by the KIRKWALL BAY – quite a
substantial pilot vessel considerably larger than those which operate on the
Mersey and other Irish Sea Ports.
BLACK PRINCE
was all secure at the Northlink Hatston Quay terminal on the Orkney Mainland at
06:46 almost a quarter of an hour ahead of schedule. On the ro/ro berth was
Northlink’s
HASCOSAY looking to be of a similar design to that of the former
IoMSPCo PEVERIL. She apparently overnights Sunday to Monday at Hatston Quay.
Around 07:30 Streamline Shipping’s container ship DAROJA arrived at the
container berth, containers being handled by a road crane.
After breakfast
it was down to the quay for the free shuttle-bus to take passengers into the
Orcadian Capital the City of Kirkwall. Did I say city? – Well think more City of
Peel, Isle of Man than City of Liverpool – though it is about twice the size of
Peel and with a larger selection of shops.
Whilst quite a
few passengers undertook organized coach tours it really does make sense to do
your own thing when on a cruise. The cost of coach tours booked as part of the
cruise is quite high. With the internet on which to do research and obtain
timetables it makes much more sense to “do your own thing” and this is what I
chose to do.
The shuttle bus
conveniently dropped passengers off at Kirkwall Harbour adjacent to the Orkney
Ferries booking office. Tickets were obtained for a round trip to Eday and
Sanday before an hour or so spent browsing round the city.
Once back in
the harbour the former Isle of Man Government patrol vessel
ENBARR was
discovered now in private ownership – but still registered in Douglas some 10
years after her replacement.
The
EARL SIGURD
– a McTay built ship operated the 10:30 circular sailing which called at Sanday
between 12:00 and 12:10 and Eday between 12:30 and 12:40 before returning to
Kirkwall Harbour for around 13:45. Then it was back on the shuttle-bus back to
Hatston Quay. By now HASCOSAY had started to load up including some interesting
double deck animal carriers built on Mafi trailers.
BLACK PRINCE
cast off at 15:45. As we departed Klyne Tug's ETV ANGLIAN SOVEREIGN was on
approach for Kirkwall.
We headed southwards again between Shapinsay and Mainland
before dropping the pilot at 16:12 and heading off in a south easterly
direction for the east coast of Scotland.
A North Sea Rig was clearly visible through the cabin port hole at
19:15.
Dinner followed
at 20:30 with an informal dress code (normal jacket / blazer and tie). After
dinner the lights of the east coast of Scotland were visible which was judged to
be around Peterhead.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Monday:
Distance sailed – Liverpool to Kirkwall: 519 nautical miles
Wind
Force 1, calm air, calm sea, partly cloudy skies. Barometer 989mbs |
Tuesday August
12
I awoke around
06:15, the timber baulks visible through the porthole indicated that BLACK
PRINCE was in the lock at Leith. Quickly up and dressed I was on the top deck in
time to see us make fast in the lock around 06:25.
Ahead of us was
Leith Docks, with the preserved RY BRITANNIA and a rather shabby looking RFA
LARGS BAY berthed ahead of her. Both
BRITANNIA and LARGS BAY were berthed
outside the Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre part of which provides access to the
former Royal Yacht as well as associated reception and shop facilities. Looking
astern the ALBATROS of Phoenix Reisen could be seen heading up the Forth bound
for Rosyth. She is a sister ship to Fred. Olsen Lines BOUDICCA and BLACK WATCH a
trio built originally for Royal Viking Line.
BLACK PRINCE
cleared the lock and headed off across the basin to the Cruise Ship Terminal
were the ship made fast at 07:15. She was assisted by Forth Port’s tug FIDRA.
After breakfast
it was off to the shuttle bus for a run into Edinburgh. Unlike the call at
Kirkwall and the later call at Harwich there was a nominal charge for the
shuttle-bus of £4 for unlimited use
Disembarking
passengers were greeted by serenades from the musicians who marched up and down
the quayside playing well know airs on the pipes and drums.
However, it is
regrettable that it was not made clear that the Lothian Transport Majestic
Circular Tour Bus also stops outside and runs to a 20 minute frequency – this
fulfils the shuttle bus function and provides a tour. Various tickets are
available (admittedly costing more than the shuttlebus) but including one which
includes all Edinburgh Tour bus routes.
It is a long
time since I visited Edinburgh around 1979. Since then I have never felt a need
to return! Perhaps because it was a grey morning things just looked depressing,
but it wasn’t helped by the large crowds attending the Edinburgh Festival. As
with London which has the same effect I don’t think I will be back in a hurry!
Anyway I found
what I was looking for - the Firth of Forth Tour Bus this connects with the
modern “pleasure steamer” FORTH BELLE at Hawes Pier, South Queensferry - the
former terminal for the Firth of Forth Car Ferries. From here an interesting cruise
to Inchcolm Island followed and I was just in time to see
BLUE STAR 1 pass beneath the Forth Bridges! Unfortunately the weather broke and it started to
rain, at the least FORTH BELLE had a semi open stern with a canvas awning. If it
had been nice it might have been tempting to go ashore for 90 minutes on Inchcolm Island and catch a later sailing back. However, I returned to Hawes
Pier and took the tour bus back to Edinburgh. The rain continued so back to the
BLACK PRINCE for lunch – it was nice to escape the damp masses!
After lunch –
it was time for a visit to the former Royal Yacht Britannia. Well worth a visit
it is too. However, though she is well presented the usual problem of decay
which occurs to statically preserved ships was apparent. Recent wet weather had
caused water ingress into the Duke of Edinburgh’s suite and the area was hidden
from public view whilst above work appeared to be in progress to solve the
problem.
RFA LARGS BAY,
despite being a new ship was externally looking rougher than the former Royal
Yacht, with rust streaks and patches of non matched grey paint!
Dinner
arrangements on Tuesday were different. There was an early dinner for those
going to Edinburgh Tattoo at 17:30, followed by open sitting with casual dress
code for everyone else in the two main restaurants.
The original
itinerary for cruise BP819 has suggested that BLACK PRINCE would depart around
23:00 allowing time for those attending the Edinburgh Tattoo to be back on board
before sailing. Two nights and a day were to be allowed for the comparatively
short run down to Harwich.
However, this
was revised to an 06:00 departure on Wednesday August 13. This was probably
planned all along though it was understood some maintenance was going on with
one of the ships engines over night.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Tuesday:
Distance sailed – Kirkwall to Leith: 231 nautical miles
Wind
Force 2, light breeze, smooth sea, cloudy skies. Barometer 989mbs |
Wednesday
August 13
A quiet night
was spent in Leith Docks. I awoke, without the aid of my alarm at 05:52 as I
dressed the vintage Pielstick’s kicked into life and within minutes I was up on
deck fortunately the previous day’s rain had eased off.
Ropes were let
go at 06:02 and with the help of the tug OXCAR on the stern BLACK PRINCE made
her way to the sea lock. Gates were closed at 06:46. After running down in the
lock she departed the lock at 07:10.
The morning
remained grey and misty. After breakfast with things not looking too promising
on deck I decided to go to the Port Lecture in the Neptune Bar on Isles of
Scilly and Cóbh.
Personally I
thought it rather half hearted – appeared to be made up with some identifiable
postcard shots and some facts appeared confused with Prime Minister Harold
Macmillan being buried on Scilly (it was Harold Wilson). As far as Barry’s Court
Castle was concerned there appeared some confusion as to its location as well!
Captain Olav
Sovdsnes presented his report to the passengers at 12:00 – by then we were 11
miles east of the Farne Islands, Northumbria.
A talent show
had been planned for that day – but an announcement was made that it had been
cancelled due to only one passenger declaring an interesting participating! It
should be said that onboard entertainment on BLACK PRINCE is not very
sophisticated and the highlight of the cruise is probably the metal dolphin
racing. However, to someone who prefers the fresh air what is going on inside
isn't of particular interest anyway.
Fortunately the
weather improved somewhat enough to sit outside on the Lido Deck for most of the
day and watch the seascape slide by. Some ships were visible but nothing of much
note.
That evening
the captain Olav Sovdsnes gave an informative talk – interview style with the
cruise director Stein Dyb in which he spoke about his job and the ship. Some
interesting points mentioned were the fact that there are 16 nationalities
working on board; Pielstick want the engines back when the BLACK PRINCE is
finally retired as examples of longevity of their product. He also indicated
that the future of the ship post SOLAS 2010 remains uncertain at present until
the company decides whether to upgrade her or withdraw her. Such a decision has
not yet been made.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Wednesday:
Wind
Force 4 to 5, moderate to fresh breeze, moderate sea, and cloudy skies.
Barometer 993mbs |
Thursday August
14
With arrival at
Harwich scheduled for 08:00 it was obvious another early rise was called for to
ensure one was on deck for the run into Harwich Harbour and up the River Stour
to what used to be known as Harwich Parkeston Quay (Named after a former
director if the Great Eastern Railway) and now known as Harwich International
Port. Harwich Harbour is of particular interest as on the north side is the very
busy international container port of Felixstowe
I came on deck
at around 06:20 off Orford Ness lighthouse; it was cold but sunny and bright.
The Haven Ports
Pilot was taken on board at 06:45 and we commenced our long approach to Harwich.
There was much to see.
STENA TRANSPORTER outbound, various container ships
anchored off awaiting their turn. BLACK PRINCE powered past a couple of red
inbound freighter’s and Norfolkline’s
MAERSK EXPORTER
passed outbound. Her sister, MAERSK IMPORTER was to be seen later that day
at Felixstowe.
In Harwich
harbour there are a number of laid up lightships, one of which appears to be a
radio station. Harwich is of course the HQ to the English and Welsh lighthouse
authority Trinity House.
THV PATRICIA was noted on the berth at the Trinity
House HQ as was one of the light vessels deployed on the Sevenstones station.
We were secure
at Harwich at 08:15 – 15 minutes behind schedule. Harwich is a typical railway
port and it was noticed that on one of the now unused container cranes a Sealink
logo dating back to the Sea Containers – Sealink British Ferries – era was still
in place dating from before the Stena Line acquisition.
Also visible
was the now partly dismantled HSS berth – the linkspan and gangways have been
removed, however, the walkways, pier and dolphins remain. A poignant reminder of
an evolutionary dead end in ship design!
Also awaiting
our arrival was the town crier!
STENA BRITANNICA was on the next berth and
departed around 09:00.
A crane was
used to position the port’s gangway and passengers disembarked into a new and
spacious terminal where a free shuttle bus went into Harwich. Now I have never
visited Harwich before. To be honest I seldom visit the east coast – partly
because those places on the east coast I have visited have proved to be rather
unattractive. However, Harwich is a delight! Many old buildings, a small pier,
some interesting pubs one of which the New Bell Inn was sampled and the Maritime
Museum in the old lower lighthouse which whilst tiny hosted a stack of exhibits
from both Royal and Merchant Navies.
A sign
hanging from the ceiling caught my attention – HMS GANGES. A large white mast
had caught my attention over looking Harwich port situated on the peninsular at
Shotley opposite. So this was the location of the stone frigate, now long
closed, which performed the manning the mast ceremony! Those of my generation
who used to watch BBC TV's BLUE PETER must surely remember the time when “action
man” John Noakes went to the HMS GANGES naval training establishment and took
part in the manning the mast ceremony but failed in his attempt to become
“button boy” and climb to the very top of the mast. The final part being done by
shinning up the timber over 140ft above ground level. Whilst the Naval
establishment may have closed the landmark mast survives.
Harwich is
certainly an nice, quaint, little town and nothing like I had perceived it to
be. A fine view across the harbour makes for easy photography of the many ships
visiting Felixstowe or passing through to Harwich. There is also a cross harbour
ferry – which unfortunately resembles a yellow floating shed!
After a
pleasant time ashore it was back to BLACK PRINCE in time for lunch.
However, there
is one black mark against Harwich and that is at the cruise terminal. Two
friends disembarked after lunch to take some photographs. They were jumped upon
by a security ‘jobs worth’ for attempting to take photographs of the BLACK
PRINCE from the coach parking area - usual health and safety rubbish even though
there was not danger! Of the ports visited only Harwich appeared to have
enthusiast unfriendly security - some didn't appear to have any security at all
- though what the half hearted block 'n' mesh at Kirkwall was supposed to do is
still a puzzle!
After lunch it
was a case of getting a seat on the Lido Deck. However, the cruise director
appeared and decided he would have the ship’s band assemble outside to play us
out. – Time for a quick exit forward to the upper deck to get away from the
noise!
Ropes were off
5 minutes ahead of schedule at 15:55 and we set off back into the North Sea,
another chance to photograph the ships at Felixstowe some of which had changed
since our morning arrival.
Dropping of the
Haven Ports Pilot took place at 16:45. A large number of ships, mainly “box
boats” were to be seen in the waters off Harwich Harbour.
We headed off
in a south easterly direction and entered the Dover Straits traffic separation
scheme. The weather was great with both sides of the channel clearly visible.
There was plenty of shipping to photograph but some of it just a little too far
away for capture effectively.
Another
pleasant night on board followed with much food and drink!
|
Cruise
Log Record: Thursday:
Distance Sailed - Leith to Harwich 404 nautical miles
Wind
Force 4, moderate breeze, moderate sea, clear skies. Barometer 1006 mbs |
Friday – August
15
It was an early
start again the next morning. As with Harwich, the Channel Islands are new to
me. I made deck after we had passed Alderney, but in time to sail past Sark, and
see the stately home of the business tycoons the Barclay Brothers on the
adjacent private island of Brecquho.
The Guernsey
pilot was taken up from the PV GOLDEN SPUR at 07:52 which led us to the
anchorage just off St. Peter Port Harbour where the anchor was dropped at 08:17.
The captain
later informed passengers that 400ft of anchor had been deployed.
After breakfast
it was time to go ashore in the tenders. The landing stage carried on the port
side of the ship being deployed. The initial departures were controlled by
coloured ticket to ensure those on excursionist were ashore first.
After a browse
around St. Peter Port it was time for a trip. The bus routes 7 and 7a run right
around the island – the flat fare of just 60p makes for a very cheap tour!
Returning to
the ship for lunch it was back ashore in the afternoon for photographs around
the harbour. There is much shipping interest to be seen and though the harbour
is probably a little smaller than Douglas on the Isle of Man it is very busy
with shipping and it was possible to observe a number of movements from Condor
Ferries,
CONDOR EXPRESS,
COMMODORE GOODWILL,
CONDOR 10 and
COMMODORE CLIPPER as
well as
other operators including HD Ferries'
HD1.
I was back on
board by 16:40 the engines were fired up at 17:45, the anchor wound up and we
were off at 17:55. We sailed out of Guernsey waters, dropped the pilot and then
headed off towards the Isles of Scilly.
The weather
remained fine though the Captain announced that winds of up to 30 knots were
expected after 22:30.
With our next
call being the Isles of Scilly and from my own knowledge of the seas around the
islands I was beginning to wonder if we would be able to get ashore in tenders.
Friday evening was a little different - it was
"British Night" with passengers encouraged to dress up in "Red White & Blue" or
other national colours - perhaps a bit strange on what is a Norwegian ship! I
thought I would represent my Cornish ancestors and donned a Cornish tartan tie!
|
Cruise
Log Record: Friday:
Distance Sailed: - Harwich to St. Peter Port 266 nautical miles
Wind
Force 4, moderate breeze, slight sea, partly cloudy skies. Barometer
1014 mbs |
Saturday –
August 16
Once again I
was awake early, looking out of the porthole the sea was rough and like the sky
very grey. Up on deck it became clear that the captain had aborted the approach
and had swung and headed off to roam around outside the Eastern Isles.
Around 08:00
the Captain announced that indications were that weather conditions would not
ease until around 14:00 which would give passengers little time ashore. Instead
he announced that he would set course for our next and final port of call -Cóbh
at full speed.
After breakfast
it was possible to go out on deck as the grey clouds broke up and by the time we
sailed past Roche’s Point Lighthouse at 15:43 whilst it was still quite windy
the sun was shining and Cork Harbour looked fantastic. The pilot was picked up
just off Roche's Point - the TITANIC's last anchorage - from the PV GLEANN MÓR.
As a regular
visitor to Cóbh, on many occasions I have stood on Deepwater Quay watching the
cruise ships berth and always vowed that I would sail into the port one day. Now
around 10 years since I first made that promise to myself – here I was in bright
sunshine standing at the front above the bridge of BLACK PRINCE sailing past
Roche’s Point and into the harbour past the familiar landmarks of Fort Davis,
Fort Meagher, Spike Island and Cóbh’s beautiful cathedral. To cap it all just
approaching Deepwater Quay from Ringaskiddy was
PONT-AVEN on her once weekly
sailing to Roscoff. Things just couldn’t have been better, perfect weather, an
unexpected encounter with one of my favourite ships – all due to the fact we had
arrived early. We were helped on to our berths by the Port of Cork tug GERRY
O’SULLIVAN and the diminutive SHIELA.
A pleasant late
afternoon was spent in Cóbh and a few Murphy’s drunk at the Commodore Hotel were
I stay when on holiday. Then it was back to the ship for the the Captain’s
Farewell Party – formal dress again. The Captain introduced some of the back
scenes crew to the passengers. I made it to the correct location this time!
There was also an opportunity for formal night
photographs outside the 'Fleur de Lys' restaurant. The photographer had unrolled
a large photographic background which, though it looked a little out of focus,
looked just like the grand staircase on a White Star Olympic class liner!
Perhaps appropriate for an overnight stay in TITANIC's last port of call or
perhaps a little insensitive and tacky - depends on one's point of view!
The evening concluded with an excellent "Troll
Buffet" in the Royal Garter Restaurant - open for photographs at 23:15 and
dining at 23:30. Why Troll? well there were several statuettes of the mythical
little creatures holding Norwegian flags!
|
Cruise
Log Record: Saturday:
Distance Sailed: - St. Peter Port to Cóbh via Isles of Scilly 302
nautical miles
Wind
Force 6, strong breeze, rough sea, partly cloudy skies. Barometer 999
mbs |
Sunday – August
17
A quiet night
was spent in Cóbh and it was possible to have a lie in after all the early
starts. This wouldn’t have been possible if we had sailed over night from Scilly
with an early arrival. The disappointment of Scilly was more than compensated
for by the extra time in Cóbh.
Unfortunately
though shortly after disembarking around 10:00 it started raining an it
continued to rain for the remainder of the day. Myself and Ship’s of Mann editor
Adrian Sweeney were the only persons to take the Harbour Cruise over to the
Irish Naval base at Haulbowline Island operated by Marine Transport Services
most sensible people were in doors!
Back to the
ship for around 13:00 we were away at 14:30 assisted by tug GERRY O’SULLIVAN
again.
Unfortunately
it continued to rain so once clear of Cork harbour it was necessary to retreat
inside. Casual dress was the code for the final night as luggage had to be
packed and placed outside cabins ready for it to be collected up for
disembarkation in the morning, only hand luggage being retained for overnight
use.
Following a
final evening I retired to my cabin, having sailed passed the Bar many times I
thought I would give it a miss and catch up on the sleep I had missed due to so
many early rises.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Sunday:
Wind
Force 2, light breeze, calm sea, partly cloudy skies. Barometer 1000 mbs |
Monday - August
15
I awoke just as
finshed with engines must have been rung down from the bridge and quiet
prevailed. We were back in Langton Dock and alongside - ASHGARTH had finished
pushing us onto the berth and could be seen through the port hole moving away.
On the final
morning I had breakfast in the ‘Royal Garter Restraurant’ and noted the much
wider range of food available – whilst the ‘Balblom’ is light and airy, the
‘Royal Garter’ offers the best selection I discovered on a par with that offered
in ‘La Flora’ on PONT-AVEN.
After breakfast
it was a case of getting bags together and await the call for disembarkation.
This is well organized with different coloured disembarkation cards being
issued, with priority given to those that have urgent connections.
The captain
presented himself at the gangway to bid farewell to every passenger a nice
touch. He was actually about to start his own holidays and was also going
ashore, being replaced by Terje Ulset the new master who had also been on board
for the cruise and would be taking BLACK PRINCE off to the Western
Mediterranean.
As for the rest
of the crew – they can be summed up in one word – excellent, very obliging, very
helpful – a credit to the company.
|
Cruise
Log Record: Monday:
Distance Sailed: - Cóbh to Liverpool 253 nautical miles
Wind
Force 4, moderate breeze, slight sea, cloudy skies. Barometer 999 mbs |
Once
disembarked luggage was quickly found, loaded onto the coach and back to the car
park.
Did I enjoy
this trip?
Of course I did
I disembarked very reluctantly!
The brochure
blurb that the BLACK PRINCE is the “Little Ship with the Big Heart and Soul” is
no idle claim!
As the coach
bounced back to the car park I wondered why it had taken so long for me to go on
a cruise. I should have been doing this years ago!
Within a short
time of getting home I was on the phone to Peter Corrin to book a trip for next
summer on this delightful, classic ship for August 2009.
However, the
cruise bug continued to eat away at me for a couple of days and next August did
seem such a long time away. [Though BLACK PRINCE is operating quite a few
cruises from Liverpool over the next twelve months nothing tied in with my work
holiday dates!]
Perusing the
Fred. Olsen brochure again I found something for spring 2009 – but that is on
BLACK WATCH out of Southampton – just to tide me over and of course sample one
of the bigger ships in Fred. Olsen’s fleet.
If like myself
you have been a regular traveler on scheduled shipping services but have not yet
jumped the gap into cruising – give it a try!
Incidentally,
if you are considering a cruise and are looking for a competitive deal not just
with Fred.Olsen but other operators as well - why not get a quote from Peter
Corrin?
Click Here
for his web page and contact details. You will find Peter very helpful
and obliging.