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During
summer 1994 I travelled to the Isle of Man for the very first time
only days after the introduction of SEACAT ISLE OF MAN (SNAEFELL).
Not only was this my first voyage on to the Isle of Man, but also my
very first voyage on an Incat vessel.
Previous forays
onto the Irish Sea had been on the preserved ships BALMORAL and
WAVERLEY and also the short-lived DENNY ENTERPRISE.
DENNY
ENTERPRISE?
Yes she was
probably the second high speed craft to operate on the Irish Sea if
one counts the short-lived British United Airways Hovercoach
(operating from Moreton to Rhyl) as the first,
It was back in
1969 that I had (dubious?) pleasure of experiencing the sidewall
hovercraft DENNY ENTERPRISE operated by the Norwest Hovercraft
Company. It should be noted that a sidewall hovercraft is not
amphibious and cannot leave the water; therefore, it is more ship
than hovercraft.
I was
approaching 10 years of age when my father took me for a trip out
into Morecambe Bay from Fleetwood on the vessel which had built by
the legendry Scottish shipbuilder Denny of Dumbarton. The Norwest
Hovercraft Company had proposed to operate DENNY ENTERPRISE between
Fleetwood and Douglas – but the hovercraft ended up being employed
on pleasure cruises when found to be completely unsuitable for long
distance services in open water.
Norwest
Hovercraft Company did commence a service to Douglas, but it
employed conventional passenger vessels STELLA MARINA chartered for
the 1969 season and their own NORWEST LAIRD (ex LOCHIEL) which
following a costly rebuild operated unsatisfactorily in 1970 before
the company collapsed into insolvency.
I remember the
DENNY ENTERPRISE quite well. The passenger area was light and airy
with plenty of windows, but of course one couldn’t go outside.
However, once underway there appeared to be a lot of spray which
obscured the view of the Fleetwood waterfront and “Wyre Light” to
which the vessel sailed before returning to Fleetwood. I also recall
the noise and vibration too. I wasn’t impressed at all!
It was to be 25
years before I next set foot on any kind of fast craft. This time it
was on the then newly introduced SEACAT ISLE OF MAN in summer
1994.It was a very enjoyable experience – not only did it make the
Isle of Man accessible – somewhere I had always intended to visit
but had never got around to – but it provided convenient days out at
sea.
Unlike the
Norwest hovercraft a quarter of a century earlier SEACAT ISLE OF MAN
suffered from relatively little vibration, one could get outside and
it provided an ideal photographic platform for capturing images of
other ships.
Within a few
days of my first trip on SEACAT ISLE OF MAN I decided to take myself
off to Holyhead and take a trip on the then recently introduced SEA
LYNX II (later STENA LYNX II) which was operating to Dun Laoghaire.
SEA LYNX II was
also a product of the Tasmanian Incat yard. Unlike SEACAT ISLE OF
MAN which was already around three years old and represented the 74m
design SEA LYNX II was new and of the larger 78m design which
featured a significantly better interior with an upper deck and
additional open deck space.
Though I found
SEACAT ISLE OF MAN impressive and I supported it as my local
convenient trip to sea I must say I did prefer the more
imaginatively laid out interior and open decks of SEA LYNX II /
STENA LYNX II.
Time went by
and I was able to sail the Irish Sea in other Incat vessels: the
STENA SEALYNX, RAPIDE, DIAMANT and SEACAT DANMARK.
I travelled on
other high speed craft as they appeared including the HSS STENA
EXPLORER, JONATHAN SWIFT, SUPERSEACAT TWO (VIKING) and SUPERSEACAT
THREE.
If anyone looks
back at voyage reports and other comments I have made on Irish Sea
Shipping they will know I am no fan of the HSS. Boxy, impersonal,
restricted external viewing opportunities and about imaginative
design wise as a fast food outlet of which she had several!
Irish Ferries
JONATHAN SWIFT though retaining the boxy “SWATH” design found on a
larger scale in the HSS was certainly an improvement on the HSS but
in my eyes was not aesthetically pleasing.
Sea Containers
Fincantieri SUPERSEACAT TWO and THREE looked good externally – but
the main passenger accommodation was about as well thought out as a
bingo hall with the majority of seats all facing forward in high
density rows.
Perhaps the
interior design of the SUPERSEACATS was a ploy by Sea Containers to
get people to consider joining their then BLUE RIBAND CLUB with its
own private lounge and comfortable seating?
Well it
certainly worked with me and I soon signed up! For me sea travel is
having a good view and a comfortable seat only in the Blue Riband
Lounge could one be assured of this, plus a door offering quick exit
to the outside deck for photography if necessary.
The open deck
on the SUPERSEACATS was disappointing SSC2 / VIKING was relatively
unsheltered and could become uncomfortable in certain conditions,
besides the exhausts on SSC2 often tended to resonate and vibrate
very annoyingly at speeds around 20 to 30 knots. SUPERSEACAT THREE
had a much more sheltered open deck but for some reason much of it
was fenced off for no apparent reason which meant one had to battle
through rows of smokers on busy sailings to get to the rail to take
photographs
With the sale
of the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company first to Motagu and later
Macquarie SUPERSEACAT TWO remained in the fleet eventually becoming
VIKING in 2008. Whilst she looked good in the traditionally inspired
livery adopted in 2008 she was still a disappointing vessel on which
to travel.
Therefore, the
announcement in spring 2008 that the Isle of Man Steam Packet
Company had acquired INCAT 050 was welcomed. INCAT 050 had recently
returned from a US Military charter and had been bound for Express
Ferries. However, this fell through and she was snapped up by the
Steam Packet.
When the news
was announced it was greeted by scepticism in many areas especially
when some people realized she was almost as old as SUPERSEACAT TWO
having been completed in 1998!
However, it
wasn’t a case of just buying the ship and putting her into service.
She was sailed back to the UK and rebuilt at Portsmouth by Burgess
Marine. The rebuild included provision of extensive new passenger
areas which could accommodate 800 passengers.
Over the winter
many followed the work with interest and there was some
disappointment that completion of work was around three weeks after
that first intended. But as they say the good things in life are
sometimes worth waiting for ……
She finally
entered service on the morning sailing from Douglas to Liverpool on
May 22 and on returning to Douglas that day was officially renamed
by the wife of the President of Tynwald.
Though I could
have travelled on May 23 I decided to avoid the bank holiday weekend
and booked my first trip for the 11:15 sailing from Liverpool on
Thursday May 28.
I arrived down
at the Pier Head fairly promptly – before MANANNAN had arrived. This
was not only my first trip on MANANNAN but my first opportunity as a
foot passenger to try the completed terminal facilities at the Pier
Head.
After watching
MANANNAN berth ay Prince's Landing Stage I wandered down the bridge
to the new terminal.
The new
Liverpool terminal facilities appear to work quite well. But one
wonders what effect the more restricted marshalling space now
available may have at busy times considering the high vehicle
capacity of the MANANNAN.
Perhaps the
powers that be should have allowed some of the revamped Pier Head
area to be used as additional marshalling space. The vast expanse of
uninspiring paving just cries out to be put to good use for a few
hours each day!
The last time
foot passenger check-in and waiting facilities were provided on the
Landing Stage was back in 1994 – the new facilities are much
improved from those days – the waiting area is well laid out and
provides good views of the river for waiting passengers.
Unfortunately
though, members of the Manannan Executive Club are not provided with
a members’ waiting room as they were in the land based terminal. But
space on the stage appears to be at a premium,
However,
priority boarding is still offered to MEC members though I can’t say
I am entirely impressed with the way that is organized.
One also
appears to get a priority boarding if you bring a pram or pushchair!
Whilst prams
and pushchairs are carried free, Manannan Executive Club members pay
a significant fee each year and perhaps should be allowed to board
before the prams / buggies / pushchairs!
Therefore,
wouldn’t it be appropriate to allow MEC members to board first? –
All it needs are some new boarding cards a few minutes work with a
computer and laminator!
I didn’t make a
note of the exact time of boarding – but it was around 10:35 and
took place via the passenger loading platform which has undergone
further modification to make it compatible with MANANNAN. Once on
board one proceeds up the portside aft external staircase and enters
the passenger area towards the middle of the vessel. Though there
are doors which lead into the Blue Point Bar these do not appear to
be used.
Boarding a new
ship can take one a while to orientate oneself – but on coming on
board it was apparent that MANANNAN was rather different from any
other Irish Sea fast craft. The initial impression was that the
interior was much more like a conventional passenger ship.
I felt that
there was something of the last KING ORRY about her. The large open
spaces one associates with fast craft were noticeably lacking. There
were partitions, passageways, small seating areas overall there was
a cosy feeling which gives the impression that those who want a
quiet corner should, on all but the busiest sailings, be able to
find one.
Extensive
windows running right around the vessel provide serve to enhance the
bright airy feeling, rather different from the dull central interior
of SNAEFELL.
Commencing on
the main deck at the stern there is the Blue Point Café Bar. The bar
faces in wards and personally I find it rather reminiscent of the
Lido Bar on Fred Olsen’s BLACK PRINCE.
Doors on each
side of the bar counter lead out onto the very sheltered aft open
deck which offers excellent views in an arc of around 170 degrees
across the stern of the vessel. Part of the deck is restricted in
size by a crew only staircase which descends from the upper open
deck.
Returning to
the Blue Point Café Bar and moving forward there are family side
seating areas with toilet facilities on port (red seating area) and
starboard (green seating area) as well as separate inboard cinema
lounges equipped with large flat screen monitors.
These side
lounges themselves appear somewhat reminiscent of those offered on
the KING ORRY.
Moving forward
there is a seating area to the port side of the shop. The shop
ityself appears smaller than that provided on the VIKING. The
starboard side seating area also boasts a recessed children’s play
area.
The Café Coast
foot outlet is located towards the forward end of the ship just aft
of the forward lounge seating. There is further passenger seating to
each side of the food outlets.
The forward
lounge allows a view forward though one really has to be standing to
appreciate it. Also visible is the upper level of the car deck and
several cars were seen with their fronts pointing towards the
lounge. This ramped vehicle area provides easy, level, disabled
access from the vehicle deck to the main deck.
The rear
bulkhead of the forward lounge carries publicity photographs
promoting not the Isle of Man but Tasmania – the home of Incat. A
plaque explains their significance for those unaware of the
MANANNAN’s origins.
The upper deck
is reached by two staird – a wide aft facing staircase passes
upwards from near the Café Coast into the Manannan Executive Club
Lounge. There is also a nearby lift on the starboard side.
A second,
narrow staircase – which reminds one of the aft vehicle deck stairs
of the LADY OF MANN, leads up into the Niarbyl Reserved Seating Area
on the starboard side. On the port side is the Manannan Premium
Lounge (First Class).
There is a door
from each of those lounges leading forward into the Manannan
Executive Club lounge. Entering here one is confronted by the wrap
around forward facing windows which offer an excellent forward view,
which combined with the side windows provides a viewing angle of
what I would expect to be over 200 degrees. There are no blinds
fitted to these windows unlike those fitted to the forward windows
of the BEN-MY-CHREE.
Seating is
mainly high back black and read leather faced seats four facing
forwards the remainder at table groupings – these are adjustable.
At the sides by
the entrance doors are two “L” shaped sofas – but these are labelled
for “crew emergency use”. Similar notices were to be found on by
selected seats on the main deck.
The upper open
deck is accessed by doors from the Niarbyl Reserved Seat Lounge and
the Manannan Premium Lounge.
This is a well
sheltered area which provides a view aft.
Whilst MANANNAN
is impressive, this upper open deck disappoints. Whilst there is a
good view to the stern above the aft accommodation access to the
sides is to some extent restricted as on both port and starboard
side are located air conditioning pods.
One wonders
why, the aircon pods could not have been placed in a railed off area
in the centre to allow passengers access to the sides? Some other
later generation Incats do have centrally mounted pods.
Above the upper
passenger deck is the rather small centralized “wheel house”. One
cannot really call it a bridge it is more reminiscent of that
provided on an HSS or even an SR-N4 hovercraft.
The lack of a
proper bridge means there are no “bridge wings” berthing is aided by
on board CCTV Cameras.
Departure from
Liverpool was around 5 minutes behind schedule at 11:20. The Rock
was passed at 11:39, Q1 at 12:03 and the Liverpool Bar Lightfloat at
12:08. On the way down the channel MANANNAN passed LAGAN VIKING
outbound for Belfast.
Little shipping
was observed enroute except for CLIPPER RANGER.
On approach to
Douglas the Captain announced that MANANNAN would be heading a
little further east as she swung into the bay due to the presence of
a school of basking sharks. The fins of these creatures could be
seen off the port side.
Around this
time SNAEFELL passed outbound heading for Dublin on her 13:45
sailing.
MANANNAN
arrived at Victoria Pier Douglas at 13:58, the outer berth being
occupied by Royal Navy Mine Hunter HMS RAMSEY. On the south side of
Edward Pier could be seen the recently arrived LORD NELSON.
The return
17:15 sailing departed from Douglas at 17:07 a few minutes early
with 290 passengers and 37 crew.
A pleasant,
uneventful voyage back to Liverpool followed. The sunny weather made
the upper open deck a rather pleasant place to be.
MANANNAN was
passed the Bar at 18:51.
The panoramic
view from the Manannan Executive Club lounge of the sail up the
Mersey approach channels was breath taking.
I have seen
this view from the forward end of a number of ships over the years –
but the wide unrestricted view from MANANNAN was simply superb!
We were
alongside Prince’s Landing Stage at 19:40. Securing the vessel tool
a few minutes and was achieved around 19:50.
Disembarkation
took place via the starboard exit door and down the stairs leading
to the vehicle deck. Passengers then proceeded through the vehicle
deck across the ramp and exited via the link span.
The new baggage reclaim is located at the bottom of the original
passenger footbridge. To assist passengers carrying hevy luggage,
particularly at low tide as it was on this day, a conveyor belt has
been installed on the sea ward side of the bridge. Perhaps not an
ideal situation as at low tide the bridge is very steep. It is to be
regretted that Peel Ports never attempted to reduce the gradient of
the bridge though at least on reaching the top one is free to
proceed in any direction rather than being channelled through the
black gates and the baggage reclaim. Something which was rather
annoying for those passengers wishing for a quick get away and only
carrying hand baggage.
My first
encounter with MANANNAN was a pleasant experience. She is a breath
of fresh air and as I reported to the Irish Sea Ships Yahoo Group I
will stand by my comment that the Isle of Man Steam Packet have
pulled a “pedigree rabbit” out of the hat!
In terms of
MANANNAN’s interior layout, as commented on above, I found
similarities with a few conventional ships on which I have
travelled. She feels like a conventional ship and offers a
conventional ship interior inside a fast craft.
Obviously
MANANNAN will have a few operational limitations – but her layout
takes the interior design of Irish Sea fast craft to a new level.
On a personal
level I look forward to many future sailings over the coming years.
Irish Sea fast
ferries have certainly come a long way since the DENNY ENTERPRISE!
John H Luxton
June 10, 2009 |
