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Birkenhead - Dublin
October 22, 2005
My first trip with the
then Merchant Ferries to Dublin was in spring 1999, shortly after the
company opened a new Liverpool to Dublin ropax service. This service
operated out of Canada #3 Branch Dock and employed the new Spanish
built ships DAWN MERCHANT and BRAVE MERCHANT.
From the start the
Merchant Ferries service became my preferred means of travelling
across the Irish Sea when going on holiday. From 1999 through to 2002
I under took quite a few sailings both day and night.
Of these sailings, all
but one was to be made onboard DAWN MERCHANT. Only one voyage was made
on board BRAVE MERCHANT.
Unfortunately my sailings
with Norse Merchant, as they had become following merger, with Norse
Irish Ferries came to an end in 2002.
That year, the company's
then proprietors Cenargo found themselves in serious financial
trouble.
DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT
were dispatched to the English Channel to sail on the newly opened
NORFOLK LINE service between Dover and Dunkerque. The ro/ro freighters
NORSE MERSEY and LINDAROSA were taken on charter for the Dublin route
and the passenger service ended.
This happened around the
time that NORSE MERCHANT transferred from the somewhat in adequate
dockside terminals at Brocklebank and Canada #3 Branch Docks to the
new purpose built on river terminal at Twelve Quays, Birkenhead.
Though Norse Merchant
eventually reintroduced the passenger service to Dublin, being a one
passenger ship service timings didn't quite fit in with my travelling
patterns, so a variety of crossings made with my car in 2003 and 2004
were made using Steam Packet, P&O and Irish Ferries services.
In July 2005 the new
LAGAN VIKING was delivered from builders in Italy to take up service
on the Birkenhead – Belfast service. This displaced LIVERPOOL VIKING
which was then able to switch to the Dublin route and enable a two
ship passenger service to be reintroduced.
Therefore, with a holiday
in Ireland booked for late October, I had no hesitation in returning
to Norse Merchant Ferries for my travel and the very attractive fare
of £69 including refreshments each way for a day time sailing was an
added incentive!
Several days after making
the reservation it became apparent that DAWN MERCHANT would be
returning to the Mersey – so all being well I thought here was the
opportunity to perhaps travel on both ships for one last time.
Following refit work on the original “Vikings” and the delivery of the
new MERSEY VIKING both DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT are due to pass to new
owners. The original “Vikings” would then be deployed on the
Birkenhead – Dublin service.
On Saturday October 22, I
found myself driving into the Birkenhead Twelve Quays for the first
time, just over three years after the terminal had opened.
Compared to the
facilities offered at Canada #3 Twelve Quays is a significant
improvement, and gets away from the traditional “portacabin” culture
of Merseyside’s Irish Sea terminals which has prevailed since the
short-lived B&I Terminal at Waterloo Dock closed in the early 1980s
Though I arrived at
Twelve Quays quite early around 07:40 there were a number of other
vehicles already queuing up.
The check-in gate opened
around 08:00 and the queue moved forward, though as I came closer to
the kiosk a second check in opened.
Norse Merchant does not
issue tickets for phone bookings. I had my booking reference jotted
down, but an observant check in clerk must have spotted my
registration number and welcomed me by name before I had chance to
quote the number. That created a very favourable impression.
During the Summer Norse
Merchant announced that in the interests of security they had decided
to introduce a photographic ID policy. This check was carried out at
Birkenhead before boarding cards were issued.
Along with the cards
passengers are handed a laser printed letter welcoming them to NMF and
giving details of the crossing.
This is obviously
compiled on a day to day basis giving details of weather conditions,
cinema film etc.
The "signatory" is the
passenger manager Diane Poole, a name once synonymous with Sea
Containers services on the North Channel out of Belfast.
However, given the
weather forecast, one really had to wonder if sea conditions would be
"moderate to rough"?
The letter advised that
early arrivals would board at 08:30, with later arrivals boarding at
09:30.
After leaving the check
in booth, one passes into the security check area. Here, the vehicles
are subject to a search. The car in front had its boot searched. I had
my engine compartment checked and an under body mirror run around the
car.
Whilst the checking was
done a number of questions were asked in a conversationalist way. The
security check was thorough, performed in a professional and friendly
without being officious.
Cars were then drawn up
in to two groups of queues, one for Belfast and the other for Dublin.
The advised boarding time
of 08:30 for early arrivals came and went, as did the advised boarding
time of 09:30 for late arrivals.
During this time the
first cars for the Belfast sailing had been led on board LIVERPOOL
VIKING by the foot pax boarding bus.
Around 09:50 a member of
staff arrived to tell everyone to start their engines and a few
minutes later the cars had started to snake out of the compound
towards the river wall.
By 10:10 I had driven on
board BRAVE MERCHANT. The old arrangement of marshalling passenger
cars at the forward end near the stairs and lift has continued.
By the time private
vehicles were loaded drop trailers, a few trucks and trade cars had
already been loaded and were being secured by crew.
The captain advised
passengers that it would be a smooth crossing, at least he, unlike the
producers of the letter had bothered to check the forecast!
Just prior to departure
SUPERSEACAT TWO could be seen inbound on her 08:00 sailing from
Douglas.
By around 10:35 the rope
men were making their way along the catwalks to the dolphins. Singling
up commenced at 10:39.
By now I had made my way
back in to the Jockey Club Bar which offers a fine view over the bow.
A few moments later a steward came round to inform passengers that
"brunch" was now being served in the Winning Post Restaurant.
Norse Merchant advertise
an inclusive lunch, though I think to one or two passengers not used
to truck drivers dining requirements it was somewhat early.
There was a choice of
breakfast or a three course lunch.
Breakfast was the usual
fry up, the lunch was either fish and chips with vegetables or beef
curry and rice.
I opted for the beef
curry, which was rather tasty and had a good flavour. I followed with
a fresh fruit salad for dessert.
Returning to the Jockey
Club Bar, BRAVE MERCHANT had past the Rock and was in Crosby Channel.
Inbound was the car carrier
GRAND PACE. Looking astern could be
seen a flotilla of Adsteam tugs heading down stream to rendezvous with
the car carrier.
At this time P&O’s NORBAY
could be seen to have departed from Gladstone Lock and was swinging in
the river. Further up stream LIVERPOOL VIKING could be seen swinging
off the Twelve Quay south ready to follow us out bound for Belfast
Formby light float was
passed at 11:34, Q1 at 11:38 and the Liverpool Bar Lightfloat at
11:50.
The weather deteriorated
briefly to a period of heavy rain which appeared to be coming in from
the North, whilst to the south, over Wirral and North Wales the sun
could be seen to be shining.
No vessels were noted at
the Bar anchorage and the Douglas Gas Platform was passed at 12:15.
BRAVE MERCHANT appears to
have changed very little since my one and only trip on her a few years
ago. Her external superstructure paintwork appears to be very well
maintained as does her internal fittings. Unlike another Irish Sea
ship of similar age on which I travel regularly BRAVE MERCHANT doesn’t
appear to have suffered from lots of pieces falling off and not being
replaced! The only major missing feature is the sculpture of the race
horse “Dancing Brave” which once stood at the entrance to the Jockey
Club Bar.
There has been an
interesting addition to the ship’s facilities. Shortly after the
introduction of DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT they were fitted with four
pairs of garden style seats on the aft open decks. Two pairs on deck 7
and two pairs on deck 8.
The port side pair of
seats on deck 8 has acquired a modern “bus stop” style structure over
them made of Perspex and metal. This is the “smokers den” – the ship
is now operates a complete no smoking policy inside. In the past the
“Jockey Club Bar” was divided into smoking and non smoking sections.
The next vessel to be
seen was an east bound freighter or tanker off the Welsh coast between
Lynas and Great Orme's head.
Looking towards the Welsh
coast near Lynas the distinctive silhouette of the University of Wales
Research Vessel PRINCE MADOG could be seen to the east of Lynas.
At 13:31 NORBANK passed
east bound for Liverpool off Lynas
DAWN MERCHANT passed east
bound beneath the silhouette of Parys Mountain crowned by its mine
headgear.
At 13:58 and unidentified
east bound Bulker could be seen. To the Isle of Man and Calf of Mann
could just be discerned. Also visible some distance to the north was
one of the Royal Navy’s River Class patrol vessels. However, it was
not possible to make a positive identification
The Lighthouse crowned
Skerries were passed at 14:10 and it was just possible to make out the
outline of ULYSSES at Holyhead.
No other vessels were
observed until 15:12 when MERCHANT BRAVERY could be seen heading
eastbound for Heysham.
At 15:30 passengers were
summoned back to the Winning Post Restaurant for afternoon tea. The
afternoon tea comprises a scone, donut and tea, coffee or fruit juice.
As with lunch the afternoon tea is inclusive with the fare.
At 16:21 Irish Ferries
JONATHAN SWIFT overtook on the port side, whilst the small tanker GAS
PIONEER passed southbound at 16:21 across the stern.
Heading out of Dublin Bay
HSS STENA EXPLORER could be seen on her afternoon sailing from Dún
Laoghaire to Holyhead.
Astern, coming over the
horizon could just be made out STENA ADVENTURER.
The small container ship
EMMA headed south down the Irish Cost.
Shield Navigation’s ro/lo
freighter RR SHIELD [ex LEILI] was overtaken off the Baily at 16:45.
She is currently on charter to Norse Merchant for services on the
Heysham – Dublin route.
As we ran past the Hill
of Howth a threatening sky with somewhat peculiar lighting had
developed over Sutton, with the sun shining to the south over Dún
Laoghaire.
BRAVE MERCHANT was off
her berth at 17:12 and was secured by 17:20. Though car drivers were
called to their vehicles fairly soon after berthing it was to be some
time before enough drop trailers had been liberated to enable cars to
drive off shortly before 18:00.
Therefore, Norse
Merchant’s advertised arrival time of 18:00 for the 10:00 sailing is
accurate in the sense that one does not disembark until around 18:00
even though arrival can in practice be much earlier.
Dublin - Birkenhead
October 28, 2005
My return journey was
booked for Friday October 28. Now I had been hoping for the return
trip to be on DAWN MERCHANT, however, I had observed the previous
evening that DAWN and BRAVE must have switched sailings as it was DAWN
MERCHANT which was at the Norse Merchant Ferries terminal at Dublin on
Thursday evening’s sailing to Birkenhead.
I arrived at Dublin
Terminal around 07:45. Things were very busy. The early crossing and
mid day crossings of the JONATHAN SWIFT had been cancelled due to
adverse conditions and obviously some of the traffic from the JONATHAN
SWIFT’s early sailing had been held for the ULYSSES.
The Norse Merchant check
in booth was already opened and two cars had already checked in for
the 10:00 sailing. Interestingly, unlike at Birkenhead, there was no
checking of photographic IDs, though there was a notice in the check
in booth stating that photographic ID was required. Unlike Birkenhead,
there was not security check
The weather had caused
JONATHAN SWIFT to have “an Olympic Flame day” and she was resting on
berth 51a whilst ULYSSES was on berth 49.
STENA ADVENTURER was away
at 08:15.
It was observed that foot
pax loading of the ULYSSES must have commenced sometime before vehicle
loading as a number of passengers appeared to be gathering on the
promenade deck.
ULYSSES vehicle loading
commenced just after 08:15.
Loading of vehicles for
BRAVE MERCHANT began before 08:50, when the marshalling compound side
gate was opened and cars moved across the passenger terminal approach
road into the Norse Merchant Terminal compound and assembled behind
the security van.
The security guard
collected our boarding cards and a few minutes later escorted everyone
on board. There were only around 9 private vehicles.
On boarding it was
apparent that almost the entire load comprised drop trailers, some of
the flatbeds being stacked in pairs.
The total passenger count
was around 25, which is easily absorbed by the spacious passenger
accommodation designed to accommodate 250.
It should be noted that
the passenger accommodation on DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT is
significantly bigger that that on a 74m Incat vessel yet the maximum
passenger loading is only around half of one of these smaller high
density accommodation vessels.
I wandered outside for a
while and noted that approaching the Poolbeg oil berth was the tanker
SICILIA aided by Dublin Port tugs
CLUAIN TARBH and DALGINNIS.
Passing Poolbeg
lighthouse MERCHANT BRAVERY could be seen in bound from Heysham.
ULYSSES was away on time on her 09:05
sailing to Holyhead.
Meanwhile NORBAY passed
outbound on her morning sailing to Liverpool.
MERCHANT BRAVERY swung and came
astern onto berth 53 on the opposite side of the basin being secured
around 09:50.
The rope men then turned
their attention to BRAVE MERCHANT’s departure and she was away around
10:10, ten minutes behind the advertised time. The captain advised
that it was windy and may be a rough once out at sea, however, he
announced that arrival at Birkenhead was likely to be ahead of
schedule.
As BRAVE MERCHANT ran down the Liffey fairway Dublin
Pilot Boat #1 - PV TOLKA passed outbound to
rendezvous with the inbound ARKLOW VIKING.
BRAVE MERCHANT slipped
past Poolbeg Lighthouse at 10:20. Opposite Poolbeg is the North Bull
Lighthouse. This was covered in scaffolding and appeared to be
undergoing some extensive refurbishment.
The despite the warning
that it might be rough out at sea, BRAVE MERCHANT made steady progress
with little motion apparent.
ARKLOW VIKING passed in bound in
Dublin Bay having been met by PV TOLKA.
Once again “Brunch” was
served in the “Winning Post Restaurant” this time the choice was a
chicken dish (can’t recall its exact name), fish and chips or a fried
breakfast. I opted for the chicken followed by fruit salad. It was
very good. In the early days the then Merchant Ferries always appeared
to have a problem serving food hot, rather luke warm. However, this
problem appears to have been overcome.
On returning to the
“Jockey Club Bar” at 11:11 the tanker STELLA POLLUX was noted heading
westbound.
DAWN MERCHANT passed west
bound 1t 13:40.
Little other shipping was
observed and BRAVE MERCHANT past through some patches of heavy rain.
The Douglas gas rig was passed at 15:16. From the north west a James
Fisher Tanker could be seen approaching – this turned out to be SEVERN
FISHER which was bound for the former Cammell Laird wet basin.
A number of ships were
noted at the Bar anchorage, however, passengers were summoned to the
restaurant for afternoon tea which, as on the outward journey,
comprised a doughnut, scone and tea / coffee / juice.
The Liverpool Bar was
passed at 15:40 with Q1 buoy being passed at 15:47. BRAVE MERCHANT was
secure at Twelve Quays, Birkenhead at 16:45.
This time car passengers
were not called down for a few minutes after arrival until many of the
drop trailers had been removed. I didn’t note the actual time that I
drove ashore, but it was shortly after 17:00.
Over three years have
elapsed since my last voyage with Norse Merchant Ferries. During this
time the company has weathered the financial storm which signalled the
end of its parent company. The Dublin route has suffered from being
“freight only” for part of this time before returning to a one ship
passenger service. Now the Dublin route is back up to a full ro-pax
service. It is unfortunate that the operation of the two “race horses”
together on the route for which they were built will only be short
lived as they are due to be replaced this winter when the new MERSEY
VIKING is delivered. However, it was good to sample the route again on
one of the original vessels.
Overall Norse Merchant
offers a very pleasant travelling experience. The ships are
comfortable and spacious. Even though the “race horses” are due to be
replaced I am sure an equally good service will be provided when the
original “Vikings” are redeployed.
With the return to a full
service on the Norse Merchant Birkenhead – Dublin route this summer it
is not difficult to understand how the additional competitive pressure
placed on the Irish Sea Express fast craft service led to the closure
of that operation during early October. On the Birkenhead – Dublin
route – it is obvious that freight pays the main running costs, the
passenger service is an “extra” therefore Norse Merchant can offer
very attractive vehicle fares on day time sailings against which a car
and light commercial vehicle service can never compete with. The
spacious and comfortable passenger accommodation along with the
reliability of service in all weather conditions offered by Norse
Merchant's conventional vessels more than makes up for the longer
crossing times between Merseyside and Dublin.
The Norse Merchant
service is highly recommended for direct journeys between Ireland and
England, it may be a little slower than a fast craft, but it is a
better way to cross. If you have not tried this route is is highly
recommended. |
