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Back in the summer of 1998 the
arrival in Douglas of the BEN-MY-CHREE caused quite a shock to the
Manx travelling public. Her modern ro/pax design was not
exactly popular with passengers accustomed to the accommodation
offered aboard the passenger orientated KING ORRY. A ship which had
begun life as ALA's train ferry ST. ELOI and had latterly had served as
Sealink's CHANNEL ENTENTE.
In 1998 the BEN-MY-CHREE fans
could probably have met in a telephone box, with plenty of room to
spare! However, one or two people including the writer of this voyage
report thought that the BEN had merit even if you had to be a Blue
Riband Club member to appreciate it in those early days!
Given all the grumbles and bad
press seven years ago, along with suggested radical plans to redesign
the ship which were published in a Tynwald report, who would
have thought that when the KING ORRY sailed away to Moby Lines to become
MOBY LOVE II that the BEN-MY-CHREE would ever operate a well
loaded pleasure cruise?
Fortunately times change, and so do people's
attitudes.
To some extent the change in
opinion has probably been assisted by an on-going programme of
improvements to the passenger accommodation on the BEN-MY-CHREE. This
culminated early in 2004 with the creation of two completely new
extensions.
Seven years on from her delivery,
the BEN-MY-CHREE is now a popular Isle of Man Steam Packet ship.
Perhaps not quite as popular as the dear old LADY OF MANN, but not far
behind and certainly in a different league to the increasingly
decrepit Italian speed boat currently chartered from Sea
Containers.
On the evening of July 23, 2005 I
found myself assembling with many other Steam Packet enthusiasts and
members of the public intent on an evening out with a difference at
the Douglas Sea Terminal.
Though I arrived at the terminal early, numbers
steadily continued to grow until the departure lounge became much
busier than is usual for the Saturday evening BEN-MY-CHREE departure.
Around 18:20, as is usual when
large numbers of passengers congregate, someone started the rush to
the departure gate and people who could have comfortably remained
seated for another quarter of an hour or so ended up standing until
the tape was removed and embarkation could commence.
It was obvious that the
BEN-MY-CHREE would not get away on her first "Round The Island" cruise
on schedule due to the late loading. The short turn round time from
her arrival from Heysham and the need to prepare the ship was probably
the reason for this.
On boarding, passengers where
issued with a coloured ticket to for admission to the buffet. This
well organised method having been used on Lady of Mann Round The
Island cruises in
recent years means that passengers are not left queuing for lengthy
periods.
However everyone was on board
before 19:00 including a number of dignitaries including The President
of Tynwald the Hon. Noel Cringle and The Lieutenant Governor - Air
Marshal Ian Macfadyen. The total passenger count was understood to
have been 412.
Just prior to departure Captain
Roger Moore welcomed passengers and dignitaries on board and
explained that the ship would head "south about" on her first
circumnavigation of the Isle of Man. At points during the cruise the
well known maritime historian and journalist Dick Clague highlighted
items of historical interest.
Ropes were off at 19:03 and the
BEN-MY-CHREE set off on her first circumnavigation, clearing the
harbour mouth at 19:06. As is almost customary, she went "south
about". It is understood that one or two "north about" cruises have
been operated by the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company over the years, but the tendency is to go "south about".
The BBC Weather forecast
suggested several days earlier that there might be
some concern for the weather on Saturday evening, however, the weather
was fine. The evening could not have been
better, with clear blue skies and good visibility.
Sailing down the coast the
BEN-MY-CHREE was off Derbyhaven by 19:29 and rounding Langness
Lighthouse by 19:35. It is understood that the keepers' cottages are to
become home to BBC motoring correspondent Jeremy Clarkson.
Approaching Port St. Mary, it was
clear that the BEN-MY-CHREE was going to run right into the bay. This
recalled the night back in July 1998 when the late Captain Vernon Kinley
brought the BEN-MY-CHREE into the bay off his home town on her
delivery voyage.
The BEN-MY-CHREE sounded a long blast on
her whistle in tribute around 19:54 and then headed out again,
past the spectacular cliff line of the Chasms and Spanish Head.
As she crossed the south eastern
entrance to Calf Sound at 20:04 a maroon was fired from the shore in
salute.
The Ben passed round the south
end of the Calf between Chicken Rock Lighthouse and Caigher Point
around 20:13 below the two abandoned and the one functional Calf of
Man Lighthouses.
She then assumed a north easterly
course across the north west entrance to Calf Sound passing at 20:18
as she headed to Port Erin.
At around this time "pink" ticket
holders were summoned below, rather unfortunately I had a pink ticket
and missed much of the incursion into Port Erin Bay. Considering it
was low water it was interesting to note just how far in the
BEN-MY-CHREE proceeded. Fortunately Alex McCormac managed to secure shots of this
interesting visit.
Presumably, with probably all the
ship enthusiasts on the Isle of Man on board the BEN-MY-CHREE, one wonders if
any photographs of the ship in Port Erin Bay will surface! She must
have made an impressive sight from the shore.
After our visit to Port Erin the
BEN rounded Bradda Head and continued northwards along the west coast.
At this time I had retreated to
the Blue Riband Lounge to eat the buffet collected from the main
lounge area on deck 7. The food buffet provided, as with the one on
the Manxman Steamship Company Charter of the LADY OF MANN several
weeks earlier, was excellent with a wide variety of goodies.
In addition to the food all
passengers were provided with a glass of punch. In the Blue Riband
Lounge a large jug of this interesting concoction had been provided
though only about 50% was consumed.
One wonders what it comprised of as unfortunately it was probably the
only thing about this splendid evening which did not go down well with
many of the passengers going from the comments I overheard!
With the sun sinking towards the
western horizon somewhere just beyond the indistinguishable east coast
of Ireland, the light was adopting a golden glow as it illuminated the
cliffs between Port Erin and Peel including the cluster of little
cottages at Niarbyl made famous by such films as The "Brylcreme Boys"
and "Waking Ned". These are currently undergoing restoration my Manx
National Heritage.
Off Peel the sinking sun
illuminated the sandstone walls of the Peel Castle which dominates SAINT PATRICK's Isle. Meanwhile the Peel Lifeboat could be seen towing a
small boat into harbour in the golden light this scene superbly
captured by Alex McCormac (left). The sun finally disappeared behind
the Irish coast around 21:28, a few minutes after the BEN had passed
off Kirk Michael.
The BEN-MY-CHREE rounded the
Point of Ayre around 22:03 the firing of a coastguard maroon as she
passed the twin lighthouses market the ship's turn to the south for
the final leg back to Douglas. Cars parked near the lighthouses
flashed their headlights in greeting, though one wonders if the person
attempting to photograph the Ben in the failing light with using a
flashgun had much success!
At this point I decided to
venture back into the Blue Riband Lounge for the final run down the
coast. The passengers in the lounge agreed that it was time to switch
off the lights to ensure we didn't get a visitation from above seeking
to close the blinds for "Navigational Safety Reasons"!
Ramsey was passed at 22:17, and
Maughold Lighthouse at 22:28. The clear evening had
ensured that some light remained in the sky, for the mountains to
appear as bold silhouettes in the back ground.
On this final leg of the cruise
back to Douglas, chairman of the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company,
Juan Kelly addressed the passengers over the PA system
The lights of Laxey slid by at
22:46 and Groudle Holiday Cottages could just be discerned about 13
minutes later.
A quick run across Douglas Bay
and the BEN-MY-CHREE was off her Edward Pier berth at the scheduled
arrival time of 23:15 with "ropes on" at 23:20, just five minutes
behind schedule.
 On
disembarking the ship, all passengers were presented with an
attractive certificate commemorating the BEN-MY-CHREE's first
circumnavigation of the Isle of Man.
To sum up, it was a most
wonderful evening blessed with superb weather, everyone appeared to
have a fantastic time on board.
With the LADY OF MANN's future
now very uncertain, and the likelihood of her final "Round the Island"
having already taken place, it is clear that the BEN-MY-CHREE is a
fine ship on to use for future RTI cruises.
If anything, the cruise on July
23 has confirmed that the once unloved BEN-MY-CHREE has become
recognised as a worthy successor to those classic steam and motor
ships which have gone before.
I think all those who took part
in the trip would like to thank the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company
for such a well organised and memorable trip to mark their 175th
Anniversary.
Here's to the next 175 Years.
Can we have another BEN-MY-CHREE
Circumnavigation Next July .. ?!
NOTE ON PHOTOGRAPHS
These appear in sequential order left to right along the top and then down the side of the Voyage
report.
I have avoided captions as most people will be able to
identify the locations from text if they do not already know them.
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